I thought that part of the fun of living in the "Outdoor Country of the World" would be to experience the things that New Zealand has to offer. When I heard about the "Great Walks" I knew I had to do one.
For those of you who don't know, the "Great Walks" is the country's premier hiking and backpacking trails in the country. There are a total of 9 Great Walks in the country and it just so happens that I am about 2 hours from 5 of them. There was no way I couldn't do at least one.
Now, you know me. I had to do my research. I asked multiple people their favorite hike, bought a book and visited hiking/outdoor stores several times to get all of the things we needed. I was ready. I just had to get Bruce on board...
"Honey, we are going to do a Great Walk--the Kepler Track"
"Ok, I'll get my coat"
"No, its a Great Walk. I've booked it for my birthday weekend. It will be fun"
"You want to hike for your birthday?"
"Yes, its a 3-4 day hike through some of the most beautiful scenery in New Zealand with mountains and rainforests and...."
Bruce wasn't listening...I had him at "hike" and "birthday"...I'm sure he was calculating how much money he was going to save not feeding me at a fancy restauraunt.
"uh, hello...are you still with me?"
"Yes! Sounds great! But one thing...What makes you think you are in shape to hike?"
Silence...I KNOW he did NOT just say that!
"Uh, what I meant was, what makes you think that WE are in shape to hike?"
Better, but still in trouble.
"Cause," I snapped. "They said it was easy"
Famous last words...
This is where I found out that Kiwi's lie. Either that or they have NO concept of what is hard.
Every time I have asked them about something being difficult or hard, they always give me the same answer...
"No, its not that bad, its easy"
Never trust when a Kiwi says something is easy. Their preception of easy is when you don't end up in the ICU after an activity. An ER visit, a few broken bones and being laid up for a couple days is still "easy".
I should have known... This is from the same people that told me that a 90+ mile bike ride was easy...
They lie.
Needless to say, I didn't think anything of the fact that I had NEVER hiked before. Oh sure, I've done "nature walks" where I carried some water and bug spray but I have never had to carry my entire LIFE on my back. The Great Walks are nice in that you don't need a compass or a GPS. The trail is pretty much dummy proof. You just walk. BUT, you must walk with a 20-30lb bag on your back for 3-4 days, 6-8 hours a day. And you may not see another person for hours...When is the last time you went for a half day without seeing another person? The closest i've come to that is being the first one at the mall on a Sunday. You have to bring all of your food with you PLUS an extra day rations "just in case". You have to bring clothes for all weather and all seasons because you can and will experience all 4 seasons in one day.
You have to bring a sleeping bag, able to keep you warm in sub zero temperatures (just in case) and you have to fit all of that into a "medium" size pack that you wear like a mule on your back. Not to metion all of the other stuff you need like cookery, matches, first aid kit, etc. My first mild panic after packing was realizing how heavy our food was! I thought I did good, I found food that was high in protein and carbs to bring with us but 4 days worth of food takes up space! And adds weight! After packing our sleeping bags, extra clothes and food, we had no more room in our backs. And no more strength to carry.
I have to admit, we were so excited at the beginning. We had our brand new packs, brand new sleeping bags and cool camping gear we couldn't wait to break in. They day we started was a perfect sunny day. Them temperature was a balmy 75 degrees, we had a big breakfast in our tummies, we were ready!
Or so we thought....
Let the fun begin!
All smiles before the pain...
Bruce and his brand new, never before used pack...all 30lbs of it...
Kepler is a Easy/Moderate Track but harder on the first day
American interpretation: Kepler is a calf killer and a spirit breaker but if you can make it up hill you get some awesome views so don't kill yourself or have the ranger call you a helicopter out...
We were trotting along, having a ball. Chatting about life and travel and all the fun things we could do. It was getting hot. We were peeling off layers, the sweat started to pour. Seems hotter when you have 30lbs on your back. No problem, we figured we'd rest for lunch about 3 hours into the hike.
Then the hills started. First they were little hills then they became horrible acute switchbacks that climbed higher and higher. I felt like laying down after 3 hours! We stopped for lunch and I was ready to scream "I give up!" but my pride wouldn't let me. This was my idea, so I couldn't give up first. I was hoping that Bruce would give up and then we could both pretend that we'd rather just do something else in town. But no, we are both stubborn to the end and wouldn't say those three little words..."Kill me now"
First lunch break and I was broken...
Limestone bluffs near the alpine section..Almost there...
Looks like something out of a dream...
All of a sudden, about 5 hours into our death march, we came out of the forest and into cold mountain air. We had made it to the top...sort of...we walked through alpine tussock planes and all of as sudden saw the most beautiful sight in the world...Salvation, also known as the the Luxmore Hut.
Barely...
We huddled up into the main kitchen area which consisted of gas stovetops and heated our ramen noodles and canned chicken for dinner. Now, usually I would have sat thinking about all of the great expensive food that I COULD have had had I stayed in town but I was too tired, to dirty and to sore to care. We ate our noodles, took a bunch of ibuprofen for the pain, chased it with a hot toddy and fell asleep in our bunks. It was 5 oclock...
We woke up, refreshed and less sore and ready to conquer the world. The 14 hours of sleep had worked its magic. (That plus the 600mg of ibuprofen and the shot of tequila that we took as a bedtime drink).
We were excited to see what the top of the mountain had in store! Too bad we believed Kiwi Lie #2...
Ready to go on day #2!
Still smiling despite the cold!
The Second Day is Mostly Downhill...
I should have known not to trust what the Kiwis say about outdoor activities. "Mostly" should have been the blaring warning in that sentence. But nooooo...I heard "Downhill" loud and clear. I didn't realize that we weren't even at the TOP! After 6 backbreaking hours of trudging uphill yesterday, we still had 4 more hours up!!! I didn't know that, had I known, I would have had Bruce get me the most expensive birthday present he'd ever gotten me...a one way, 5 minute emergency helicopter ride down to the town!
We were rested and excited and we started out, up hill from Luxmore Hut. About 30 minutes outside the hut we noticed the weather had changed. Big time...The wind was icy and we started to notice that the snow on the peaks of the mountains around us were actually really close. We were up in the mountains. Thank God for Bruce and his love of dressing me warm. He made me put on long johns, waterproof pants and my windbreaker. When it was all said and done, I had 4 layers of clothes on up top and 3 down below. Nice!
We continued to trudge uphill but we were rewarded with some of the most awesome views. All of a sudden, the hills seemed smaller (they weren't) and the track seemed shorter (it wasn't). It was nice to see what we had accomplished. We actually were higher than some of the surronding mountains and were able to see the gorgeous fiords of Lake Manapouri, a lake so big that it has over 200 islands! We even saw evidence of a recent avalanche that had wiped out some of our track!
Huh? We are NOT experienced...
A recent avalanche that had wiped out some of the track...
Bruce near the top...or so we thought...
So small in such a big world
Where exactly does it get easy?
Feeling taller than the mountains...
That is a looong way down
We made it!!! Kind of...
What goes up...and up...must go down....eventually
Now downhill should make me excited but a "gentle" downhill would be nice. Not the sheer drop that punished the knees and back. The downhill made me wish for a little uphill. I should have known that downhill could be as bad. After stopping for another break (and more ibuprofen) we started to drop down the other side of the mountain towards the rainforest. You could tell it was rainforest by the dense mist hanging over it and the amazing jump in temperature as we got closer.
Going down into the rainforest...
It got hot, quick! Peeling off of layers of clothes...
Serious trees
Seriously dense forest...Shouldn't there be some Ewoks/Elves/Hobbits or something about?
What made it funny is that we talked so much about how dense and thick the forest was that we started to spook ourselves thinking that we heard noises off the track...
What was that?
Did you hear something?
Nice little refill station
Salvation Hut #2..Iris Burn Hut
Yes, I'm tired...no, those are not my clothes
Waterfall/shower/bathing facility
On the Third Day...No One Lied...
The third day was the best start ever. It was cool and clear and we really were done with the steep downhill and uphill climbs...only flat trail to go! 7 hours of it..
We had the opportunity to walk through valleys and follow a river until in poured into the huge Lake Manapouri. We even found our own little "beach" to rest and relax at. After a refreshing "bath" we headed on to our third and final hut, Moturau Hut. This hut was smaller and less congested than the two larger huts. After arriving to the hut and resting for a brief while we decided that we couldn't spend another night eating ramen and sleeping in bunks...the call of a proper bed and a steak dinner was too much to bear.
Easy Tramping...through the Valley
Fern forest
On the shores of Lake Manapouri...perfect for a bath!
After a little dip/cleaning and reenergizing break
Big mistake.
One hour after leaving the hut my toe started to rub and blister. We stopped and let me do a little first aid bandaging. Even with the anti-chafe cream and blister stop pads the toe was screaming with every step. Bruce was so sweet, he made it a point to scour the nearby forest for sticks that I could use as walking poles. He found me two and fashioned me two "crutches" so that I could take some of the pressure off of my growing blister. We hobbled on at a much slower pace, thanks to my crutches and Bruce's sciatic pain, looking like we had just done battle in Middle Earth with hobbits and dwarves. After what seemed like forever, we made it to our exit point. On time and only semi-crippled.
Little Timmy can walk!!! Its a Christmas Miracle!
Bridge to Freedom...and a shower...and a steak...
I almost started crying. What she said next sounded like music to my ears..
"Which tramp did you do?"
"The Kepler"
"Oh! God, that's one of the hardest! I bet you're exhausted!"
"Yes, I am...and I no one told me how hard that track was going to be, but I did it and I'm proud of myself! By the way, where are you from?"
"Philadelphia. Oh, and never trust the Kiwis when they tell you something is easy"
Happy Birthday to Me
If you'd like to see all the pictures of us going through hell and back, click here